Glikolevyj exfoliation (acid peels) — what is it, reviews, prices, contraindications, photos before and after
It is believed that it operates smoothly even at high concentrations, does not cause pronounced inflammation and redness. In Europe, for it is called the «lunchtime peel».
The list of problems helps to cope glycolic peel, is huge and includes all of the most common complaints that clients come to her facialist: rejuvenation, getting rid of scars, treatment of pigmentation, getting rid of blackheads and enlarged pores, improving skin appearance, getting rid of dryness.
But we should not forget that the purpose of peeling is to cause skin damage and stimulate her recovery. Hence the presence of complications. In fashion magazines and beauty blogs talk about the benefits willingly, about the complications of casual and very reluctantly. Because let’s face it with you where in fact glycolic acid can be useful and where in the course are sweet advertising promises.
What is glycolic acid and how it works?
Glycolic acid is an alpha oxicology (ANA-acid or fruit acid), and received it first from sugar cane. Also it is known under the name exucuse acid.
Its molecule has a small size, because it penetrates into the intercellular space of the skin.
Glubina penetration of the acid depends on its concentration in cosmetics and residence time of the drug on the skin.
The basic mechanisms of its effects:
- Glycolic acid disrupts the connections of the dead skin cells and accelerates exfoliation of the skin surface.
- The active exfoliation of the Horny scales in the mouths of hair follicles and facilitates cleaning of the pores and excretion of sebum.
- Glycolic acid damage living skin cells and stimulates the process of recovery: the damage in the first place react such skin cells like fibroblasts, which accelerates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid.
- Glycolic acid has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect on the skin.
- Destroys the melanin and removes pigmentation.
Indications for glycolic peel:
- preparation of the skin, facilitating the skin penetration of cosmetic and medicinal products;
- the presence of ingrown hairs;
- the first signs of aging (fine lines, skin folds);
- the uneven surface of the skin;
- acne and post-acne;
- increased dryness of the skin;
- sagging of the skin.
Video: cleaning on glycolic acid
When the procedure is contraindicated:
- Pregnancy and feeding the baby breast milk.
- The complexion of the skin ranging from 4 to Fitzpatrick (dark skin, dark eyes, dark hair).
- The presence of warts.
- Exacerbation of herpes with the appearance of the characteristic rash.
- In the presence of foci of inflammation in the skin (pustular rashes);
- The presence on the skin spider veins and spider veins: with rosacea, the glycolic peel is contraindicated.
- Trauma to the skin at the site of the alleged effects of glycolic acid.
- After a course of chemotherapy.
- Acute colds.
Any peels increase the risk of development of skin pigmentation in response to sunlight.
Some beauticians claim that superficial chemical peels can be done in the summer. But let’s not delude ourselves: cosmetologist peels can be done at any time of year, but it’s your face and you then walk with him. Even if you do a course of peels in the fall and winter, during the year, use of sunscreen with SPF of at least 25 is required for you.
The basic rules of a
1. A good beautician will never take the customer directly to the procedure, even if in the past the client had made a superficial peeling with glycolic acid repeatedly.
Usually two weeks before the peel is preparing a procedure during which is performed the brushing is applied to the gel with glycolic acid in low concentrations (usually 5-10%), then a gentle massage or application of a moisturizing mask.
Preparing procedure is necessary in order to determine the sensitivity of the skin to glycolic acid and to protect people from unwanted consequences.
For two weeks prior to peeling, the customer is recommended to go to a special makeup that contains acid in a small amount in its composition, which will help the skin prepare for the impact of high concentrations of glycolic acid during the procedure and will greatly facilitate recovery.
2. The first procedure is performed drug with the lowest concentration of active substance.
This is usually a gel that contains 25% glycolic acid. If the skin of the customer responded well to the first procedure, there shall be the following, which will be used for product with a greater concentration of glycolic acid, for example, 30 percent. In all subsequent treatments, the concentration of acid increases first up to 40 percent, then to 50 percent and in some cases at the end of the course using glycolic peel of 70 percent.
Preparations with a concentration of acid up to 30% only works on the superficial layers of the skin and cause desquamation of the epithelium. Activation of metabolic processes, synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, takes place.
Preparations with a concentration of glycolic acid from 30 to 70% penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and stimulate fibroblasts, which are responsible for the effects of rejuvenating and increasing degree of hydration.
There is a variant of the procedure, when used at a maximum concentration of glycolic acid with each treatment, the residence time of the drug on the skin increases. This method allows you to save money and get results faster, but it significantly increases the risk of complications and unwanted effects of the procedure.
3. Any amount of glycolic acid higher than 6% require a special Converter.
If the acid catalyst is not used or is applied in insufficient quantity, the remaining the skin’s acid continues to work and causes deep burns and scarring in the worst case, severe and persistent redness and severe peeling, if the rest of the acid a bit.
4. After the peel is mandatory intense hydration of the skin during the procedure, and at home.
Usually beauty cosmetics recommended by the physician who conducts the peeling. In some salons and private offices about the mandatory post-peel care and intense hydration silence, as such care is usually expensive. And in some cases even argue that peeling would eliminate the daily use of creams.
But without moisturizing and nourishing the skin worse than recovering from the procedure, because you may not get the result they expected. And last, the effect of course is not as long as I could. This means that you have to do it more often, and the course to do the next time longer.
5. Glycolic peels are not performed in the spring and summer.
After peeling necessarily need virtually year-round use of sunscreen. Glycolic peel is not peeling summer, as it is positioned some salons. «Summer» is only gluconic peeling. Names sound about the same, but use different active substances with different mechanisms of action and different effects on the skin. And even the summer peeling you should not do before going to the warm countries.
Especially dangerous for the skin after peeling is the winter sun, as the skin receives a double dose of UV rays: one directly from the sun, and the second is the rays reflected from snow. Because Sunny winter days it is important to protect your skin from the sun.
Compulsory during the winter peeling is the use of creams that protect the skin from the action of low temperatures.
6. Repeated courses are conducted starting with the lowest concentrations, even if the previous course was no problem, as it can change the condition and sensitivity of the skin to change used for peeling the drugs that can lead to unexpected results.
Known drugs for acid peels in the cosmetic market of Russia
Belita offers the preparation of glycolic acid with a concentration of only 50 percent. Tonic-gel neutralizer is designed to neutralize fruit acids.
Cost of glycolic peel is about 300 rubles for a jar with a volume of 300 ml.
Mostly Tiande offers its customers the peels on the basis of several fruit acids. The manufacturer claims that it peels can be used for skin around the eyes.
The cost of the tube with a volume of 120 ml is from 250 to 300 rubles.
Mirra offers its customers a series of products for the glycolic peel «Glycol» which contains not only gels for the procedure with the concentrations of active substance of 25, 50 and 70%, but also the means for pre-peeling skin preparation.
The cost of the jars of peeling gel 100 ml is about 750 rubles.
A disposable sachet peeling gel that contains 10 percent glycolic acid.
The cost of one sachet of 110 rubles per 5 ml.
Peeling «Arcadia» contains 70 percent glycolic acid, because the depth of influence depends only on the residence time of the drug on the skin.
Kosmoteros offers buyers a gel glycolic acid 70 percent. It goes to a bioactivator-a Converter.
In a series means All inclusive glycolic peel without catalytic Converter and without specifying the percentage of glycolic acid in the composition. But judging by the fact that the applied peeling needs manufacturer’s recommendation of 2-3 times per week, the percentage of the active substance there is clearly no more than 10%.
The cost of a tube of 50 ml volume is 160 rubles.
Glycolic peel from Nature Bisse comes in capsules and contains two concentrations of the active substance: 25% to 50%. Except ampoules for peeling part of a series included funds for training pre-peeling and post-peeling care.
Some manufacturers offer glycolic peel for feet. As a rule, these Korean brands.
How is the procedure
Before the procedure be sure to consult with a dermatologist or dermatology and cosmetology. It is desirable that the salon procedure was performed or beauticians with medical education, or cosmetic doctor’s prescription.
This will save you from the excuses «It’s in your individual skin reaction like,» if something goes wrong, and you will be able to receive the necessary help in time. The client laid on the couch. Hair protection cap.
- In the first stage, face clear of makeup and dirt and degreased for better penetration of the drug into the skin.
- In the second stage, applied to the skin gel with glycolic acid for a few minutes.
Typically, the residence time of the drug on the skin can vary slightly depending on the structure and condition of the skin and of the recommendations of the specific manufacturer of the drug. The preparation is applied with cotton swabs, brush or gauze pad.
Is this a normal reaction to the acid when the skin reddens slightly and the patient feels a burning sensation from light to intense.If the redness becomes intense, the swelling appears on separate sites or the whole face, then the drug is removed or partially if areas with a strong reaction limited, or completely around the face.
If the burning sensation is too strong, reduce the discomfort by using cold air flow.
Napkins, soaked in water for cooling is strictly forbidden, as water makes the gel with glycolic acid is more fluid and allows for deeper penetration of the drug, which can lead to serious burns.
- In the third stage on the skin causing the neutralizer to neutralize the remaining acid and to protect the skin from its deeper penetration.
Converter with the remnants acid wash skin with water. At the end of the procedure on the face with a moisturizing cream or algae mask. After the procedure, the doctor definitely makes recommendations for skin care after peeling and recommends drugs that promotes healing and skin repair, if necessary.
Video: Rejuvenating treatment
How to care for skin after peeling
On the day of the procedure, avoid washing your face and applying the skin cosmetic products, except those that promote rapid healing (Bepanten, Panthenol, etc.).
- Within 1-2 days after the procedure should not be applied on the face creams and other cosmetics.
- It is possible to wash with water and then with water and mild soap.
- After washing, binding is applied to the skin moisturizer.
How many treatments
The standard number of procedures per course no. Some people will need one. And someone needs to be 4-10 to achieve the desired effect. Typically, the interval between treatments and superficial chemical polling is 10-14 days.
Unwanted effects and side effects:
- swelling of the face;
- pronounced redness that can last for several days;
- increased pigmentation;
- the absence of the expected effect.
The cost of treatment is the glycolic peel at the salon.
|consultation of the beautician||from 450 rubles|
|glycolic peel 25%||from 600 rubles|
|glycolic peel 50%||from 800 rubles|
The before and after photos